3. Very carefully remove your pre-cleaned Conservation Clear Glass from the stack and set it out of the way - careful not to fingerprint it or scratch it.  NOTE: DO NOT REMOVE THE STATIC-CLING STICKER from your Conservation Clear Glass as it is there to identify the non-coated side of the glass - you will remove it later.

4. Determine which "artpiece(s)" you want to use in your design - CD, Insert Cover and/or Back, Traycard, full Digipak ("wallet") etc.  NOTE: If you opt to feature the front AND back on any one art-piece, you may need two complete copies of the artpiece(s).  Carefully move the piece(s) around your mountboard to determine positioning and spacing of the artpiece(s).  Consider overlapping 1 or more artpieces for added "float" illusion.

NOTE: You have been provided with enough shimstock blocks (square for inserts, rectangular for traycards, and round/ring for CDs and DVDs) to use more than one layer per artpiece if you so desire.  You may, for example, wish to use two layers for your CD, but only one layer for your wallet (AKA digipak) or insert, however you MAY NOT USE MORE THAN TWO LAYERS OF SHIM BLOCK without exceeding the depth of the frame.  If you have chosen to "layer" your artpieces, you must first mount one shimstock to another block by removing the brown adhesive-strip backing paper from ONLY ONE SIDE of ONE BLOCK (or ring) at a time to expose the adhesive.  Carefully align the two shimstock blocks and firmly press the two together with even pressure to insure proper adherence. 

5. Once you have your shimstock blocks prepared, remove the brown paper strips from ONLY ONE SIDE OF THE BLOCK, and with your artpiece(s) still upside down, center the selected shimblock, ADHESIVE SIDE DOWN, atop the WRONG SIDE of the art-piec and press gently though firmly while being careful not to damage ANYTHING!  Set aside, and repeat this step until all the artpieces are mounted to shim blocks.

6. Take the mounted artpieces, and once again with a critical eye, lay them on your mountboard to check for final positioning.  Once you're confident in your artpiece placement, take the remaining brown paper strips off of the back of ONLY ONE SHIMBLOCK/ARTPIECE AT A TIME and CAREFULLY press the artpiece EXACTLY where you want it.  CAUTION - YOU MUST APPLY EVEN PRESSURE as not to bend/dent/damage the art-piece.  Repeat this step until all the art-pieces are securely in place.

8. While avoiding fingerprints, carefully set your Conservation Glass back on top of your stack - making SURE that the static-cling sticker is facing "out".  Set stack aside and proceed to Frame Assembly Instructions.

 

DIY - FRAME ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS

GET STARTED

1. Select one stick ("leg") of the longer length of frame moulding (example: with a design size of say 10" x 20", you would select one leg of 20" moulding).  We will refer to the long legs as "leg L1" and "leg L3", and the short legs as "leg S2" and "leg S4".

2. Place one threaded plate and one backing plate together to make one set of corner hardware, making sure that the screw heads are visible, or facing "up", as shown in photo 2.

3. Slide the set into the track at the end of leg L1 (refer to photo 2). NOTE - Do not tighten
the screws just yet.

4a. Select one of the shorter legs - "leg S2", and slide it onto the other side of the plate set, forming a "V" shape (as shown in photo 4).

b) Align the mitered ends by moving one or both legs as necessary.  Once aligned, tighten
the two screws WITHOUT OVER TIGHTENING.

c) Make a second plate set, and slide it into the available track on leg S2.  Slide leg L3 onto
the available plate set - forming a "U" shape.  Repeat Step 4b.

5. Turn the 3-legged "U shaped" frame face up so that front of the frame is visible to you.
Set it aside.

6. Carefully check the "stack" (your glass, artwork, mounting board, etc.) for debris caught between the glass and the matboard, etc.  If you find that you need to clean under the glass, CAREFULLY LIFT the glass UP AND AWAY from the stack - DO NOT SLIDE THE GLASS ACROSS THE STACK.  Remove the debris and then carefully replace the glass to the stack.

7. Once you've determined that the stack is free from debris, with the frame right-side-up (facing you), carefully slide the stack into the frame channel as shown in photo 7.

8. Once in position, turn the frame back over so that it's upside-down, with the back facing you, and add the final two plate sets to both ends of the remaining frame leg (leg S4) and carefully slide the plate sets into the available tracks of Legs L1 and L3, making certain that
the entire stack slides into the track properly.  Repeat step 4b to tighten the last two corners.

9. You most likely do not have room to insert the spring clips due to us having shimmed your stack to the maximum to create a deep "shadowbox" for you, however, if you find that your stack does not feel secure inside the frame, you can secure the stack by flexing and inserting the spring clips between the frame and the backboard (see photo 9).  You may need to flatten the bend in the spring clip with pliers to allow for insertion.

10. Once again place the frame upside down, making sure that the TOP of the frame is closest to you.  Snap one "hanger" into the track approximately 1/3 of the way down from the TOP of the frame.  Repeat this step on the other side of the frame, making sure the two hangers are level - or "even" with one another.

11. String the picture wire through both holes in the hanger and pull it taut (tight) and even across the back of the frame.  Loop the wire through the holes once again for added security.  With leaving about 4 to 5 inches of wire dangling from the hangers, clip off the excess.  Wind the remaining wire around and around and around the strung wire to finish the ends.

12. Peel the backing off the foam square wall protectors and stick one on each bottom corner.

13. Remove the static-cling sticker from the from of your glass, and hang!